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Cruising Paradise
Tuesday, 27 September 2005

It may look strange, but the ambiance under the artificial sun is genuine.

Yesterday, the wife and I were sunbathing on the beach. Today, the beach has sailed back to Mariehamn.

Birka Paradise has something no one else offers…the tropics on board. At first glance it may be a bit mysterious. But for those who buy a little time, and maybe a cool drink, on the sunny teak deck, a familiar and welcome warmth soon floods the body. A swimming pool and two hot tubs beckon, and a glimpse of the frozen archipelago from Deck 10’s glass bubble certainly doesn’t hurt. The artifical sunshine is filtered for harmful UV light, so everything is rosy, except you. Does it count if you don’t come back with a tan?

Absolutely. The warmth and relaxation will remind you of the first day at any great vacation spot. The slightly dazzling light leaves you feeling safely adrift. In paradise.

Further forward on Deck 10, is the full-service spa offering treatments from Scandinavian Beauty Line: facials, body wraps, and massages that even male guests will enjoy. A 50 minute treatment costs 550 SEK, while one half-hour is 380 SEK. With the purchase of any treatment you receive entrance to the spa’s facilities, including its hot tub, cold tub, steam and dry saunas, and the unique outdoor hot tub, open to the stars.

In summer, the ceiling of Deck 10 rolls back, joining the poolside patio to the deck outside and Deck 11 above, with its outdoor jogging track. Further astern is the bar, Paradise Lounge, where you can enjoy a chat under the starlit rooftop.

A wintery grey day, but aboard Birka Paradise it is only a wonderful winterland seen from bikiniland.

It’s a design unlike any other in Finnish ferry history.

”Caribbean cruise lines take Swedes to the sun, so we decided to bring the Caribbean sun here”, says Erling Ödmark, Birkas chief of marketing.

“They’ve really done it. There’re even palm trees on board. But Birka Paradise has been designed with mahogany in mind. Wood decks, deck chairs in wood, wood bar stools, polished wood paneling in the luxury cabins, lots of brass. She has the feel of a real ocean liner, and is the nearest you can come to a luxury Caribbean cruise ship in our waters. Birka Paradise is state of the art: elegant and proud to take “new” to the fullest.”

Birka Paradise will definitely appeal to the younger, big city crowd. We sailed on an ordinary Tuesday, yet noticed that many people had dressed for dinner. One hopes this will continue since it perfectly suits the ship’s style.

As always, Birka can win you over with an excellent kitchen. The food and service are first class, and the kitchen well adapted for Sweden; real portions with less “filler”, and a long list of fresh alternatives including vegetarian selections, available as complete dinners or à la carte entrees. But meat rules the day.

The aft deck is unique as a dance floor, lined with balconies and staircases to the upper decks

The Pressed Chanterelle Soup, Grilled Feta with Pasta and Pilgrim Mussels, or Reindeer Filet with Chanterelles (185 SEK) can compete with a five star restaurant on land, at a great price. The complete dinner costs 240 SEK, and you won’t find an appetizer, entrée and drinks for a better price on land. Treat yourself to the monthly special - a bottle of good label Zinfandel for only 115 SEK on the day we traveled - and you can laugh all the way to the check. Excellent food and quick, friendly service with an Åland flavor!

The large à la carte restaurant is divided into smaller nooks according to menu and ambiance. You’ll find Asian, Italian, French and ”Colonial”- inspired dining and décor and you’re welcome to choose food from areas other than where you are seated. Of course, a more typical smorgasbord is offered in the Grand Buffe.

Deck 10s sunshine even benefits the restaurant guests. The strong light touches nearby land, which shimmers a ghostly blue, and the islands’ snow mounds cast a soft purple glow over the after dinner drinks.

If Tallink’s Victoria steered the new generation of ferries back to classically beautiful lines, then Birka Paradise has continued the trend with her interior design, including her 1920’s art and seascapes in oil.

Birka Paradise is the only “Finland Ferry” that feels like a real West Indies ocean liner. Forward, near the large conference area, is a classic smoking room with overstuffed dark sofas, subdued lighting, and a selection of cigars. Glass elevators glide on the ships exterior, connecting you to the sea. The elegance reaches to the standard cabins, where less plastic and more real wood greet you. Even in the bathroom, the cold plastic shower curtain that whips around your legs has been replaced with real shower walls. I personally don’t understand why there isn’t more demand for double beds, but the existing berths are good.

Dark wood and brass in the luxury cabins

Luxury isn’t necessary for every journey, but Birka Paradise’s mahogany and brass-fitted elegance is ideal for celebrating something special.

Another improvement on Birka Paradise, and her newly-built competitor in Tallin, is the high degree of freedom from noise and vibration. Birka Paradise has been accorded The Norske Veritas classification Comfort Class 1, which has an extra star in the protocol for quietness. There is no car deck, and all cabins lie above the water line.

The shopping area is cozy. The cruise line has adopted the Finnish alcohol tax system, so hard liquor is worth buying on the Finland ferries. One could wish for a little more market competition, though. Prices on Estonian routes are somewhat lower, but on many brands, Birka could probably match or even undercut those prices. Market competition is a fascinating topic, and clearly deserves its own discussion. We’ll meet you on Deck 10, by the pool.

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